On the 8th March 2012, I travelled with four others to Tunis to attend the International Women’s Conference hosted by Hizb ut Tahrir. In a matter of five days this experience proved to be an eye opening one and our hearts were inspired. The land of Tunis is truly a place of beauty. Lush fields, mountains dressing the landscape and olive trees decorating the view. The baraqah in this land was apparent to see, yet upon my return I felt an assortment of emotions.
My initial impression upon arrival was one of sadness and disappointment. I felt heaviness in my heart as I saw the presence of alcohol and Muslim women without the correct Islamic attire. Had the fallen regime of Tunis done this much damage to the Muslim identity?
But Alhamdulillah, the pious Muslim woman emerged and became a frequent and dominant part of the landscape. As our short journey continued and we interacted with the locals, we could see just how much love the ummah of Tunis has for Islam and their yearning for the shari’ah to solve their problems. For so many years, they were strangled by their corrupt, secular government that would not even allow the wearing of hijab. Tunisians were left voiceless and lifeless, unable to express what was in their hearts and minds.
However, since the Arab spring revolutions and fall of the tyrant Ben Ali, vitality has flowed back into her. The ummah of Tunis have now awoken and are seeking the Islamic solution. Whilst some are still confused and under the illusion that a secular, democratic government is the way forward, many are looking to Islam. In their pursuit for Islam, the Ennahdah party was voted into power, but in the words of a Tunisian, ‘nothing has changed.’ Women can not wear the niqab, graduates are unemployed and some of the fortunate ones could be working for a measly 10 dinar a day. It was only last week that a brother was killed for calling for Islam. The people feel disappointed and let down. It has not taken them long to realise that the Islam they were hoping and calling for was not realised by the Ennahdah party.
We were fortunate to see for ourselves just where the Arab Spring began. The burnt out government cars, covered in graffiti and fixed in place as monuments so that this historical moment can never be forgotten. We found ourselves standing in the streets where it all began. French inspired buildings, a reminder of French colonialism and the anti- government graffiti on the walls. I felt sad for the sufferings of our ummah and those who had lost their lives during this time, but at the same time proud and happy for the brave stand that they made and how it marked the start of change for the Muslim world.
Just a ten minute walk through the market place took us to the doorstep of the great Zaytuna Masjid. Built in 84 Hijri it was one of the first learning centres of Islam. I suddenly went from the present day revolution, back over a thousand years to the time of the Khilafah State. As we stood in the courtyard, I looked around and felt the greatness of Islam. I remembered what I had read about this masjid, its atmosphere and the greatness it produced. I felt very sad that a courtyard which was once bustling with discussion and learning could now be so empty and silent. However, as I stood contemplating the beautiful words of the Qur’an al Kareem descended upon my ears as a brother passed by reciting. At that moment, I thought about the revolutions, the ummah’s yearning for Islam and felt so hopeful that the glory which once inhabited this mosque would soon return.
The day of the conference further reinforced this hope. Women poured into the conference venue, some from other parts of the world. Indonesia, Belgium, Sudan, Turkey, Australia, Canada, the UK and more. What a momentous occasion. One year ago, the ummah of Tunis could never have spoken openly about Islam. Dawah carriers were imprisoned, some had to bury their Islamic books from fear of the regime and it was deemed a crime to wear the hijab. However, on the 10th March 2012, the women of Hizb ut Tahrir held such a historical event, clarifying to the ummah the way forward. Delegates were flown in from many different countries delivering speeches on the issue of women, the Khilafah and the way forward for the Muslim world. The talks were comprehensive, clear, accurate and enlightening.
On this day, the Hizb expressed what the ummah had felt all along and provided her with the clarity that she had been seeking. All discussions were focused around the Khilafah state. The foyer area was buzzing with media covering the event and even the hotel staff were discussing and taking literature from the stalls. Every attendee wanted to know about the Islamic solution and how they could be a part of it. I realised then that the women of Tunis were beyond discussing whether Islam was a personal religion or not. They were looking to understand the Islamic system of governance as a true solution to the political problems they were facing which affected every one of them, every day of their lives. As they found what they were looking for, the takbirs, the chants for Khilafah and the expression of emotion resonated throughout the day. The atmosphere was electric, raw and authentic.
After the day of the conference, we visited various masaajid, met more locals and felt their warmth and wonderful hospitality. But, there was one more significant part of our journey which I wish to narrate. We had travelled to Sousse, south of the capital. From there we visited Kairouan, often referred to as the town of one hundred masjids. Within Kairouan we found the amazing Masjid of Sidi-Uqba built by the great Uqba ibn Nafi who led the military campaigns opening North Africa to Islam. This was another structure of sheer elegance and beauty. Thought to have been built in approximately 50 Hijri and often perceived as Islam’s fourth holiest site, once again I was taken back to the time of Islam.
Every stone of this Masjid which was also a world famous centre of learning carried so much history. Many great men of the past walked its courtyard and prayed within its walls. As we walked alongside the outer walls of the Masjid, we noticed something on the wall by one of the huge wooden doors. We moved closer to take a look and discovered that it was actually a poster for the conference that we had just attended. As we continued to walk on, we saw more posters and banners. We felt elated and very excited for this represented something so wonderful. It was so perfectly symbolic. A modern day poster calling for the Khilafah on the wall of one of the oldest Masjids built during the Khilafah, in the town of Kairouan where not so long ago one would have been arrested for challenging the government or calling for Islam. It then became so evident to me that the tidal wave of the Islamic revival was so real and building in momentum every day. It reminded me of the verse of the Quran Al Kareem whereby Allah سبحانه وتعالى says,
يُرِيدُونَ أَنْ يُطْفِئُوا نُورَ اللَّهِ بِأَفْوَاهِهِمْ وَيَأْبَى اللَّهُ إِلَّا أَنْ يُتِمَّ نُورَهُ وَلَوْ كَرِهَ الْكَافِرُونَ
“They wish to extinguish Allah’s light with their mouths but Allah will not allow but that His light should be perfected, even though the unbelievers may detest it.” [al-Tawba, 9:32]
Our history spans over 1400 years of greatness, but we have found ourselves in a devastating period without our Khaleefah and the Islamic system to implement the Quran and Sunnah, to protect its citizens and spread this deen of truth as a mercy to all of mankind. However, I look to the ummah of Tunis and everywhere in the world. Their courage, perseverance and love for Islam. I think about the Muslims in the West who have rejected Democracy, Secularism, Freedom and all Western values. Then I remember the promise of Allah سبحانه وتعالى regarding the victory of Islam and the Muslims and my heart is filled with so much hope.
Upon returning home I have brought so much back with me. However, the most important realization is that more than ever our increased efforts to work for the Islamic revival is needed. The magnitude of our responsibility cannot be underestimated at all. I saw with my own eyes and heard with my own ears the suffering of our ummah due to the absence of Islam. But, her suffering is not separate from ours. We are of the same body. Her pain is our pain and our pain is hers. Therefore, this noble duty to work for the Islamic revival must be undertaken by us all, with everything that we have to give. Our beloved Prophet صلى الله عليه وسلم was most truthful when he صلى الله عليه وسلم said,
“The grinding wheel of Islam is turning so turn wherever it turns.” [Tabarani]
Our ummah suffers much oppression at the hands of our tyrant rulers and corrupt regimes but the Western world is also suffering the darkness of ignorance. May Allah سبحانه وتعالى keep us steadfast and grant us the victory soon Insha’ Allah. Ameen.